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Going to the Fringe?

Dateline: 17th June, 2007

The Edinburgh Fringe is the biggest arts festival in the world and every year new visitors discover its joys (and its downside!). This year, it's even bigger than ever: there are over 2,000 shows in all categories (children's, comedy, dance and physical theatre, music, musicals and opera, theatre), apart from many different kinds of events and a wide range of art exhibitions. Then there are the other festivals which are on at around the same time: the International Festival, the Book Festival, the Film Festival, the TV Festival. And then there's the Tattoo.

So much to do, so little time! How on earth does the newcomer navigate through this morass? Indeed, how do hardened Fringe-goers do so? That's what this article is about: some advice on making the Best of the Fest for you.

The other festivals are comparatively easy, because the number of events is really fairly small and, given sufficient time, it's possible to attend most events. But not the Fringe. So the first choice you have to make is, what are you there to see?

Dance? Physical theatre? Musicals? Opera? Classic theatre? New and experimental theatre? Established companies? Emerging companies? Big names? Amateur theatre? Student theatre? School theatre? Professional theatre? British theatre? American theatre? Europaen theatre? They're all there.

Get your copy of the Fringe programme well in advance and go through it with a finetooth comb. Remember, of course, that every company will tell you its show is the best thing, the latest thing, the most exciting thing. Try to read between the lines and be aware that even old hands can make mistakes. I remember one year being totally convinced by the programme summary of one show which turned out to be the most appalling piece of rubbish I have ever seen anywhere. It returned the following year and another of our reviewers said she was going to see it. I warned her, but she said she'd give it a go anyway. Two hours later she phoned to say it was the worst piece of theatre she'd ever seen anywhere!

Then, when you get there, check the reviews: the BTG, of course, and reviews in The Scotsman and the broadsheets are good guides, but, of course, we/they don't review everything (The Scotsman used to, but that's another story). Three Weeks does review everything, but over the course of the three weeks of the Fringe, so what you want to see might not be reviewed until after you leave. Most venues will put reviews of their shows up outside, so that can be helpful and you don't have to carry loads of newsprint around with you.

Next question: how much time each day do you want to devote to seeing shows? They can start as early as 9am and go on to 2am, or later. Most are an hour long or less, so you can imagine how many it is possible to fit into a day. Quite a number of reviewers see as many as seven shows a day (some even more!).

Question 3: when do you want to eat? If you want to have your food at normal meal times, then you are going to have to set aside a longer time than you might imagine because so many other people are thinking the same way and the queues at restaurants can be horrendous. It's always better to eat early or very late. My own preference is for a snack at lunchtime (usually eaten on the run), my main meal aound six, and another snack much later on. But, of course, the show you really must see could well be at the time you want to eat!

The restaurants which are really busy are those on the main streets. Sometimes walking a few hundred yards off the main streets will bring you to a number of good eating places which actually have tables free! Most venues offer food, which can vary from full, good quality meals (the Traverse, for example) to packets of crisps, tired cakes and even tireder sandwiches. Pub food is generally good (and far more adventurous than it used to be), but the best places tend to be as busy as the restaurants.

Question 4: how good are your legs? There are venues in the New and Old Town, and out as far as Musselburgh, Duddington Loch, Rosslyn Chapel... Remember in Edinburgh every hill goes upwards! And there are loads of hills. On the map getting from the Assembly in George Street to the Assembly Hall seems to be no distance at all - until you realise you have to climb The Mound. Try to group shows at the same or close-by venues. In my early days as a reviewer, I used to crisscross the city many times a day. I have learned the hard way!

And a word to car owners: Edinburgh City Council hates you! Parking is very difficult and ridiculously expensive, and, anyway, the roads are jammed and I'm sure some one-way systems take you via John O'Groats. It once took me nearly an hour to drive the length of Princes Street - twenty minutes to pass Debenham's! It really is much quicker to walk. Taking the odd taxi can be a help: however once, on a taxi jourye to the Traverse, we had been stuck at the Tollcross traffic lights for ten minutes when the driver suggested it would be quicker for me to get out and walk from there. It was.

Edinburgh is a remarkably compact city and most venues are in easy(ish) walking distance of each other - except for those bloody hills, of course. Bus services are good, though, but drivers will expect you to have the right money: they don't give change. And there are loads of taxis around - except when you really need one. You'll see plenty when you don't...

Question 5: where are you going to buy your tickets? This seems an odd question and it really makes very little difference to you, except that buying them all from the Fringe Box Office is undoubtedly convenient. However it makes a big difference to the performers: the Fringe Box Office takes 9% of every transaction, then the venue takes its cut (which could be up to 60%), so buying your ticket from the venue's box office means that more goes to the performers. 9% of, for example, £8 might not seem very much, but multiply that by the vast majority of tickets sold and it becomes very significant indeed to the performers.

Have fun!

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©Peter Lathan 2007