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London Restaurants 2004

Edited by Richard and Peter Harden
279 pages
Harden's
£9.99

Good Cheap Eats in London

Edited by Richard and Peter Harden
160 pages
Harden's
£6.99

Dateline: 31st August, 2004

While reviewing their Theatregoers' Handbook, it seemed appropriate to have a brief look at the two main staples of the Harden's publishing empire. They may sometimes have to rush meals, but even theatre critics have to eat and, for the average theatregoer, the pre-or post performance meal is an integral part of the experience.

These two guides are both excellent, as they cut through all the foodie pretentiousness and get down to the nitty-gritty or with eight or ten lines of pithy comment and different measurement systems. In the full-scale book, marks are awarded for food, service and ambience, while in the cheap version, stars are given to selected restaurants.

The reason why these are books are real winners is that they have numerous lists splitting restaurants into different categories, far beyond the basic geographical. The one of most obvious interest to this audience is the pre-and post theatre meals list that features in each book.

However, how can one resist an assortment of lists that include "most disappointing cooking" as well as places to go for Sunday lunch or Alsatian food?

Whether it is it cheap or expensive, it is also useful to have a price next to every restaurant, which should represent the cost of a typical meal. In the case of Good Cheap Eats in London, this will never exceed £20.

The judgment of these hardened gastronomes is also pretty accurate judging by a small cross section. This may not be too surprising as the methodology by which these books are compiled is to survey thousands of ordinary restaurant goers about their eating-out experiences.

Bon Appetit!

Philip Fisher

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©Peter Lathan 2004